Neymar's influence has spread too far
2021.09.21 16:15 Amu1704 Neymar's influence has spread too far
submitted by Amu1704 to fng [link] [comments]
2021.09.21 16:15 ansicipin Swelling after apicoectomy
Hello, I've had apicoectomy done yesterday on the top jaw (6th) tooth on the right side. It's starting to swell now, but it's swelling on the bottom part of my cheek. Is that normal or is something wrong with my bottom teeth?
submitted by ansicipin to askdentists [link] [comments]
2021.09.21 16:15 JellyFujiX What is this plant?
submitted by JellyFujiX to whatsthisplant [link] [comments]
2021.09.21 16:15 CryptoSani Forget Lambo. When’s Amp Truck?!!
2021.09.21 16:15 average_arab Taliban country ball
2021.09.21 16:15 Significant_Face_416 For all my friend on the spectrum, we have made a little community discord with great people. If you would like to join in the fun, feel free to come.
Hey everyone, we made a little community discord with over 100 members now, it's super active and cosy. If you have a question about something, just ask it and chances are someone will answer you instantly. Or if you just want to have a chill conversation, I'm sure you will find someone to talk to.
So feel free to join.
submitted by Significant_Face_416 to AutisticPride [link] [comments]
2021.09.21 16:15 _TheGodfather Need help please - PROC EXPORT nested within and IF Statement?
Hello SAS users of Reddit, I am fairly new to SAS and work in SAS Studio. I hjave a folder called "reports" which has multiple files, some in xlsx format, some in sas7bdat format. My task is to export the excel files to my local drive. I kno we can achieve this my typing PROC EXPORT. However there are a lot of files and typing a PROC export statement for each of the files would be very cumbersome.
Is there any way to write an if statement which essentially follows the logic - IF = xlsx then PROC EXPORT to Else nothing.
Any help is really appreciated. Thank you in advance.
submitted by _TheGodfather to sas [link] [comments]
2021.09.21 16:15 roboticsound View from the ISS
2021.09.21 16:15 oaxemos I got this forest a few weeks ago and it started yellowing in the past week or so. Any tips on what this could be from or how to deal with it?
submitted by oaxemos to Bonsai [link] [comments]
2021.09.21 16:15 todesjockel365 HottestGirlsOnReddit
2021.09.21 16:15 pylodictis Free Youngkin Yard Signs
Hey yall, I have 100 yard signs which need homes. If you are in RVA and want one DM me. Ill come by and deliver it if you aren't too far.
submitted by pylodictis to VAGuns [link] [comments]
2021.09.21 16:15 0erlikon A snuggle of Capybaras
2021.09.21 16:15 dotMJEG FAQ and Getting Started in an STi. New owners and perspective buyers information and advice.
PLEASE SIGN UP FOR THE RPM ACT VIA SEMA TO PROTECT OUR HOBBY AND PASTTIME This thread text will contain a list of FAQs and tips/ tricks useful to any new or perspective buyer of a WRX STi. Current owners, PLEASE feel free to post some tricks, tips, or experiences you feel relevant below. Eventually, I will gather together materials for a /WRXSTi wiki. I will be adding information to this thread as I can. I should say upfront that this is to be taken as a guide. The intention is to display objective information that on the whole does not come from my personal knowledge, but rather what I have found to be reliable, trustworthy, and consistent information presented to me by various dealers, mechanic/ performance shops, internet forums, online groups, and real world experience. REGARDING WARRANTIES you must consult your local provider of said warranty service, this varies wildly from place to place be it law or just how that dealer chooses to work, and I cannot promise for any one single point or idea what will be considered- YMMV
We get a lot of potential buyers and posts asking questions such as "how does this look" and "what should I be looking for?" To limit the impact of these questions that do not pertain to the majority of owners, we will be directing all such inquiries to this stickied thread. As such, all questions or inquiries of new and perspective owners will only be allowed here, versus top-level of this forum. To some, this may seem less than ideal, however information on these cars is PLENTIFUL, almost everything has been said or done before and video'd up twice for every year and model of the STi. A quick and basic Google search will likely reveal all you could hope to know about any problem, as such I highly recommend you start there.
WRX vs STi
STi over WRX
- First things first- GO TEST BOTH YOURSELF. There is nothing anyone could say here that would override the actual experience of driving these two cars. While very similar, they are indeed quite different. There are many threads and posts and videos about this, not all created equal, but here's a link to a comment that I think does a very good and objective job comparing the two that isn't also something I am typing.- credit and thanks to hahuang65.
- One of the biggest points I would make here is if you at one point in your head wanted an STi, there's really not a lot that will replace it. It is very common for such folks to buy a WRX, enjoy it for a year, then switch right into an STI.
- Power.... Yes, the STi makes a small amount of power over the WRX, though this is not a reason I think to get the STi. Yes, the WRX can have a few modest mods thrown on to surpass the stock powe torque of the STi- but this does only a very small part of what separates these two cars.
- NO, you cannot "make your WRX into an STi." In short, to make the WRX into an STi, you would effectively have to throw another WRX in cost at it as you would need to effectively lift the body off the WRX and drop it onto the drive and powertrain of an STi.
What to look for in buying a USED STi User ALIN of IgotaSTi.com's "Checklist of What to look for in buying a used STi"
- If tracking your car, even occasionally, is something you plan on doing the STi stands head-and-shoulders over the WRX.
- Bulletproof and amazing transmission. The WRX tranny will not like more than 330~ hp/ tq. The "6MT" of the STi is used by many drag racing teams pushing 800-1000hp.
- Rigid chasis/ suspension- the car feels "tighter" and more "in tune" with the road on the whole. While this may make the drive a bit more bumpy, you feel the road significantly better. Particularly if you get one with hydraulic steering.
- 3 Differentials- including a mechanical limited slip diff.
- The STi is tougher to drive well, but as a result is a much more rewarding experience.
- Everything you could want to do to this platform has likely already been done, at least thrice, with videos and online guides to boot. This is slightly less of a factor now that the FA20DIT has been out for a while but still, these are some of the most worked on cars out here.
New Owners FAQ and Advice NASOIC MASER FAQ and Guide- contained within is just about every possible topic and issue you could have with these platforms. The following may include repetitive information.
- look for ANY modifications to the engine bay, presence of such is an immediate warning sign (you should know what the stock engine bay of your desired model looks like before going to buy)
- know what "piston slap" and "knock" are and sound like
- look for detailed maintenance records and all major services
- get a compression check from YOUR trusted mechanic
- 90,000+ miles you NEED a new timing belt and past 120K you will NEED new head gaskets
Without further adieu, welcome to the wonderful world of the WRX STi. Subaru Technica International's real-world name stake, who is the performance/ racing arm of Subaru Corp. most well known for their Rally 'legacy'. Speaking of rally, no you did not just buy an actual ready-to-rock rally car. You bought a performance street sports car that has many features that are very well suited to loose surface driving. That being said, these cars stock are missing TONS of modifications in order for your car to even be remotely prepared to do any even mild off roading. Namely supsension, brakes, wheels, and tires- and that's just to get off road and over bumps.
Manual Transmission FAQ and First time Owner info IF YOU ARE NEW TO MANUAL TRANSMISSIONS, PLEASE READ AND WATCH ALL OF THE FOLLOWING CONTENT. My 2016 is my first manual car. I used the following videos (in addition to a few IRL lessons with friends) and I had a significantly easier time learning and getting comfortable driving a manual. There are LOTS of little things you need to know about driving a manual transmission, especially with turbo-charged engine platforms.
It would massively behoove any new manual transmission driver to watch all of the following videos at least once. I must have watched each twice, and understanding all of the facets and niggles was very beneficial to me learning to drive one and drive one well. It will also help you take good care of your car and drivetrain, as well as very important safety tips.
FIRST, WATCH THIS VIDEO, Engineering Explained's 5 Things to Never do in a Manual AND THIS VIDEO on what never to do in a turbo car there is also this video. PARKING- ALWAYS leave car in 1st gear and engage emergency break when parking. When parking on a hill, turn the wheels into the curb so that if all brake/ resistance lets go of the car, it will roll into the curb/ sidewalk, and not out into the street.
Learning to Drive a Manual Series:
Matt Farah has a great series of videos on how to drive a Manual for first time users:
Engineering Explained ALSO has great videos on the same and some more specific subjects:
The Tool Kit
In my 2016 STi, I have a small tool roll that contains all of the tools necessary for most standard maintenance and general access/ troubleshooting in most breakdowns. From this kit I can do a full oil change, access nearly everything in the engine, install gauges, and generally pull apart the majority of the car.
Here is it all layed out.
Listed here: (L to R) Multi-head screwdriver, vise-wrench, medium adjust-wrench, oil filter wrench, monkey wrench, scissors, collapsing breaker bar, gearwrench ratcheting wrenches( 19/ 17/ 15/ 14/ 13/ 12/ 11/ 10/ 8mm), small pry bar, small adjustable wrench.
Lower Right- Lug nut key, 1/2" drive bits- 10mm, 14mm long, 14mm, 12mm long, 19mm. Should have a 10 and 11 too. A bunch of allen keys (mostly dependant on your added parts but always useful) and 1/2 drive wrench.
I also have rescue tape, assorted lg/ md/ sm hose clamps, sm and lg heavy duty zip ties, gorilla tape, spare fuses, electrical tape, and a few spare auto-zone lug nuts in this kit not pictured. I also need to add back my wire cutters!
Break-in Period for New Cars/ less than 1000 miles on the block PLEASE READ YOUR MANUAL. EACH YEAR MAY DIFFER SLIGHTLY, BEST PRACTICES FOR YOUR SPECIFIC CAR CAN ONLY BE ASCERTAINED BY YOU SPECIFICALLY.
First 1000 miles: Keep below 4000 RPM, NO full throttle, Stay out of too much boost. Change oil at 1000 miles. Vary your throttle position and try not to cruise too long at one RPM.
1000-2000 miles: You can use full throttle, avoid red-lining/ launching until at least 2000 miles. I personally would continue to vary throttle position and RPM speeds, especially now at higher RPMs (the car does like to be above 3K RPM if you are hammering it)
Change oil at 3000 miles.
Some say to avoid prolonged cold idling, and to drive very gently until engine oil is warm (~175F) which takes about 6-8 minutes in warm weather, and 12-18 minutes. I typically wait 2 or 3 minutes just to let the oil warm a bit and get moving nice and calmly until everything is totally warm. I still do this at 100k miles.
OIL STi themselves recommend Motul Xcess 8100 5W40 (gen 2 as of 2021) for performance use, it's in the manual even!
This is perhaps the most important part of ownership, and one of the most common questions and topics especially for new owners. Before I dive into words, some quick points:
These cars are extremely sensitive to oil-related issues. Running your car on too little oil, or going too long between changes and checking, is the fastlane to a bricked motor. An Air-Oil Separator is highly recommended, see your mechanic for best recommendations. BrenTuning has recommended to me the IAG Competition AOS.
- Check your oil every 1000 miles. The average EJ257 eats a little oil every 1K, best to keep a spare thing of oil handy.
- Change your oil every 3000-5000 miles. You will need approx. 5 to 5.5qts for a full change.
- Use OEM Subaru Oil Filters- the blue ones. You can get these on Amazon.
- Remember to change your oil-plug crush washer! The beveled side towards the oil pan.
- 5w30 OEM Subaru oil works great, my 2016 loves it and runs great on it.
- 5w40 Oil is also very common to run in these cars. The most popular two brands would be Motul Xcess 8100 and Shell Rotella 5w40 (yes, the 'diesel truck' one').
- DO NOT USE MOBILE ONE OIL. For whatever reason, these engines do not like this oil. Perhaps it is too thin.
A new oil pickup and baffle plate is also highly recommended. Killer B offers excellent products as well as larger oil pans. The oil pickup in Subaru engines is braised together- which is just basically a shitty friction weld. When these break, your engine stops getting oil. The moment that happens, RIP.
Wheels and Tires Wheels
New, these cars almost always come with Summe Performance tires- these WILL NOT WORK in conditions consistently below 40 degrees, and especially not on snow or ice. If you live in an area, or encounter conditions that are for more than half the day below 40F/ 3C, or consistently gets yearly ice/ snow, you NEED winter tires, or at very very least 'all seasons'.
- Quick note before we begin, the spare/ donut wheel can ONLY go on the back axle. If you have lost a front tire, you must swap the appropriate side-rear wheel for the front, and mount the spare/ donut on the back axle. Otherwise you will need a new brake caliper too.
Wheels and Tires seems daunting, but is really quite easy. You need to know Bolt Pattern, Wheel diameter, wheel width, wheel offset. Once you have these, you can then go to picking a tire. Tires are coded and these numbers are how you will pick a tire size.
Different year STis will require different wheels and tires based on lug pattern, brake size requirements, and so on, so it's very important you work specifically according to your Model Year (MY) and take into consideration any upgrades (like larger brakes).
Master Thread on NASIOC of WRX/ STi OEM wheel sizes
Most STis, especially the current models, use 5x 114.3 Bolt Pattern for the lug nuts. (Prior to 2005, they used 5x 100) The STi also requires a rather significant offset and it is very important to keep this number in-line or as close as possible to OEM. Having a massively different offset can increase wear and tear on components of the car like the differentials and AWD system (which is what makes this a particularly big issue). This is also why wheel spacers are generally a terrrible idea. Working against your cars specs can also create uneven tire wear, which is no fun when you are averaging $200/ tire.
Basics for buying a winter tire:
Good tires: Currently, Nokian and Michelin make the best winte snow tires. Nokian has the Hakkapletta R2s, and Michelin the X-ice 3s. These are both on the more expensive side, but are incredibly high quality tires. (I use Michelins and I love them, quieter than the OEM summer Dunlops). Blizzak WS70/ WS80/ WS90 are also popular due to their often cheaper price, but still offer Top-5 performance especially when it comes to deep snow.
- Thinner is better- this gives you higher surface pressure allowing you to cut through snow to find traction. A thinner wheel/ tire setup is frequently a good direction to go.
- Less rim, more tire- you want a good amount of sidewall on your winter setup, as much as can be allowed in the very small space between minimum wheel diameter to cover brakes (18" on 2018+ STis) but thin enough to not scrape/ rub your sidewalls.
- SPEED- a lot of winter tires are NOT rated for speeds above 100mph. Please pay careful attention to your winter tires speed rating! There are now "Winter Performance" tires that are aimed more at the sports-car world that give up minimal traits in winter conditions, for significant gains in terms of driving feel/ speed ability.
AN EASY WAY TO CHECK TO SEE IF YOUR COMBINATION WILL WORK IS TIRERACK.COM- enter your vehicle and wheel/ tire size to find easy matches for whatever you are looking for.
For my 2016 STi, with stock brakes I chose:
Brakes Your exact specs for brakes are dependent on model year. What is largely the same is that they are all Brembo setups, and are by-and-large extremely easy to access and change, particularly the pads. Stoptech, Hawk, and Mutegi are all excellent and well-trusted brands for brake pads and calipers at reasonable cost.
- 2006 OEM STi BBS wheels, 17"x 8", 5x114.3 bolt pattern, +53 offset.
- Michelin X-ice3s, 255/45 R17 (I may need to double check this)
Having done the full brakes on my car, I cannot recommend enough the first chance you get accessing the two caliper bolts on each wheel (only two bolts holding the brake system on the hub) and putting anti-seize on there. It is extremely common to crack one of the bolts when changing your rotors, so when you do make sure you have at least 1 spare of each size bolt you will be working with (model year dependent). 19mm Front 17mm rear in my MY2016 STi.
The Clutch While slightly less so today, the STi has always been what can be described as a "Raw" feeling car. It's very mechanical, you feel apart of the machine, and you are greatly rewarded for your success as you are punished for any shortcomings. This isn't a massively difficult car to drive. It's probably smack in the middle of the road for "learning a manual sports car".
One of the tricky spots, especially for new owners, is the clutch. It's not the heaviest clutch in the world, but it has a rather high engagement point, decently long travel, and being a heavier all-wheel-drive car it takes a bit more throttle to get everything going smooth. Even in motion, particularly in lower gears (cough 2nd cough) can prove challenging to get right.
Learning the engagement point is the most important thing. Start by getting your car rolling into first without throttle repeatedly. Find a nice flat empty parking lot or side street. Take the handbrake off (and use foot brake if necessary to hold the car) Let the clutch up super slowly, eventually you will feel it start to slowly grab, where you need to intelligently monitor the take up from there to get it rolling. Don't use any throttle, if the car starts to bog or jump push in a tiny bit back, and retry. Once you've mastered getting started without throttle, you will learn the engagement point well, and be able to start working throttle back in.
The second tough spot, well frankly, is 2nd gear. 2nd gear in any manual vehicle will always be the biggest PITA to get into from first because it is the largest jump in gear ratios. Don't expect to do this well at first, and even after 30,000 miles, expect some less than smooth into-2nd shifts. There's no magic RPM or throttle amount to use, but you do need to use a tiny bit of throttle upshifting in these cars.
DCCD- Driver Controlled Center Differential The DCCD is short for "Driver Controlled Center Differential", and is operated via the thin silver switch between your SI Drive module and center cup-holders. The biggest common misconception is that this controls where the car sends powe torque. What the DCCD actually does is controls the torque distribution bias, which is only useful on loose surfaces.
ABSOLUTELY DO NOT LOCK YOUR DIFF ON DRY PAVEMENT- this can and will damage your car. Locking the Diff is only for extremely loose and low traction surfaces. IN GENERAL it is best to leave the car in "Auto", even when doing launches, the car knows what to do best. The only time to really start playing with these settings is on gravel or snow/ ice as it's the only time you will really feel much difference. Even then, many professional and semi-pro drivers leave the car in auto.
A quick tip is if you get a flat and have to use a spare, it is advisable to set the DCCD to fully "open" or rearwards.
SI Drive The other control this car offers is called the "SI drive" and this refers to the large silver knob behind the gear shift. It has 3 modes, "Intelligent, Sport, and Sport Sharp . This simply controls the amount of throttle you are given. Nothing else.
Power and Engine Mods General advice, don't. At least not right away. These cars are very expensive and sensitive to modifications. Assume any power-train modifications require an immediate tune and driving your car with new modifications without a tune even short distances can be extremely dangerous. The most fun mods you can do without risking damage the engine or needing a tune is a catback exhaust. Axelbacks are even simpler and easier! That being said, if you are near a reputable tuning shop with a dyno, might be worth getting your car professionally tuned for stock levels (ie not trying to gain power), this can help smooth the car out and help it run better, expecially if you have gasoline that is not high quality (Cali/ Nevada/ Az) or it's particularly hot, they will be able to dial the car in to run at safer levels/ timing.
- Intelligent (I- press in)- "Throttle [opens] more gradually to maximize fuel efficiency, reduce emissions and deliver greater smoothness" it also comes with a little built in "shift advisor" for when it's opportune to shift for best MPG. I would describe it as "mushy throttle."
- Sport (S- twist left)- Balance between keeping the engine in an efficient state as well as allowing access to full performance and guarantees a more even acceleration.
- Sport Sharp (S#- twist right)- Most responsive setting, immediately opens up for direct driver input. Many STi drivers use S# and only S#, and many work a quick right-twist of the SI Drive into starting up their car.
Serious power-searches require expert opinion and tuning, as well as a sizeable wallet. It is strongly advised to find a recommended pro-tuner in your area, and have them guide you on your build. This ensures a platform that the people in your area are used to dealing with, and likely have many of the potential bugs figured or known. "E-tunes" are an option, and I would recommend BrenTuning based out of MA for this and I have also heard PhatBotti Tuning is a great E-tuner, but there are plenty of other just-as-good options.
Safe and Recommended First Super Fun Mods! Mods and accessories that are relatively easy to do, add huge fun and enjoyment to the car, and pose no risk of serious damage or warranty voiding shenanigans.
- Exhaust- AXLEBACK- Portion of the exhaust behind the axle of the car, often just the muffler portion. Most Axlebacks are simply "muffler deletes" whereby they replace the silencers of the OEM exhaust with striaght pipe. IMO this sounds fantastic and isn't too loud while also making you feel like a hotboi/gril. These can also be DIYed easily, and is very cheap.
- Exhaust- CATBACKS, this is the portion of the exhaust after the downpipe. So you will be replacing the midpipe (that has a resonator), y-pipe, and the axel-back mufflers. [DSport Magazine](https://dsportmag.com/the-tech/2017-subaru-wrx-sti-exhaust-shootout/] has done a fantastic article featuring a bunch of different CATBACK exhaustS on a stock STI. HKS, Borla, Injen, Cobb, Grimmspeed are a few of the popular names tested here. Youtube has the rest.
Quick/ Interior Upgrades
- Change your oil regularly every 3,000 to 5,000 miles, and check it every two to four fill-ups. Use the OEM oil filter and oil plug gasket. 5W30 Synthetic oil, or 5W40 in some areas. These engines DO NOT like Mobile One. The OEM oil from Subaru is great, my car loves it. For 5W40, Shell Rotella or Motul XCess 8100 are two of the most common brands.
- Whenever you are in your engine bay check ALL fluid levels, and look for any weird leaks or any foaming coming out of the oil/ radiator- this can be the sign of a serious problem.
- Wheels depend on model, current generation STis (from 2007~ onward) use 5x114.3 bolt pattern and require at least 17" rims to clear the brakes. On 2018+ models, some 17" rims may not clear sufficiently and you will need to use 18" rims.
- As these come standard with Summer Performance tires, you will need a set of winter tires if it is common to drop below 40 degrees at points throughout the year. Easiest path is to go to TireRack.com, enter in your car information, and it will automatically pull up suitable wheel and tire options for you. Nokian R2s and Michelin X-Ice3s are the top winter tires, however there are also performance winter tires in cases like near-Boston-me where we get lots of cold and snow, but it is mostly dealt with quickly to dry pavement.
- The Power Steering in most STi's is a Hydraulic system. This is key to the way the car feels and drives. Hydraulic systems love to leak, and if you ever notice you are low on Power Steering, best to start looking for a leak. You can top off your power steering fluid using any high quality ATF (automatic transmission fluid) available at any auto-store.
- I highly recommend removing the caliper bolts on any new STi and adding dobs of anti-size (Permatex) to them to prevent the bolts from breaking off in the calipers down the road when you need to change rotors.
Everything Accessport Accessport Knock Monitoring
- There is often an annoying noise that comes from the AC compressor fan beneath the glove box in the passenger footwell. This can be remedied using a Crosstrek part/ cover panel. Here's a link to what Subispeed offers to fix this, it may be available elsewhere.
- An Axleback exhaust/ muffler delete is a lot of fun, easy, and a great way to get a little more noise out of your car. They can be had for as little as $150~ (I got mine used for like $80) and really does help to scratch some of the "I NEED MODS NAO" itch.
NOTE: This section will be purely about stock engine monitoring on the Accessport in particular as it relates to Feedback Knock Learning, and DAM. This section is NOT about tuning on an Accessport.
COBB Tuning's Accessport is probably one of the most popular initial additions to an STi. I would subjectively say it is also probably one of the most important for monitoring your cars health. The Accessport, when boiled down, effectively is a monitoring device to allow you to see more details about your engine's performance, standings, and ECU settings.
Before I dive deeper myself, here is a direct link to COBB's page on Acccessport Feedback/ Knock monitoring. They do a great job explaining it in basic, but accurate terms.
The TL;DR is:
The Subaru Anxiety Port Warning: Many, expecially tuners, refer to the Accessport as the "AnxietyPort" because so many people leave it on, and watch all their "knock events" FBK going to -2.80/0.00 and a lot going on in their FKL like -3.00/0.35. This is NOT reason to pull over and start crying while fumbling to dial your tune mechanic. It's the cars computer doing what it was designed to do. If the car feels fine, chances are it is. Subaru's car computers are extremely sensitive to knock sounds, and I shit you not the right loud music, exhaust note, or pothole can cause the system to think there as a knock event. As long as you don't see numbers that correlate directly to something bad (like FBK constant of -.280/0.00 under WOT or hitting -4.00/o.00 regularly while driving) it's likely to be your car being it's timing happy self.
- The 3 most important figures for you to monitor on your Accessport would be first and foremost DAM (Dynamic Advantage Multiplier), Fine Knock Learn, and Feedback Knock. Fourth-most would probably be AF ratio.
- DAM The most important display to monitor in your STI is the DAM. The TL;DR of DAM is that you always want a DAM of 1. If your DAM drops below 1, this may be the sign of a number of issues but isn't necessarily a massive problem- read COBBs page for more. Sometimes this can be a result of bad gas and can be fixed with a change of tuning (detuing from a 93 tune to a 91 tune on 93 pump gas for example). When your DAM is less than 1, you are seeing how much timing the computer is allowing the engine to run.
- Fine Knock Learn - this is essentially your CPU having learned from past perceived knock events and applying the appropriate timing correction at a given time. Seeing ~-2.5 degrees of correction is normal, and not a specific sign of concern. Watch for: FKL -2.8 or worse during WOT, -1.4 or worse during large portions of a WOT run, or -4.2 or worse at low throttle/ cruising speeds.
- Feedback Knock Correction- this is "live" version of Fine Knock Learn, showing real-time corrections applied to engine mapping in response to percieved noise. Watch for FKC of -4.2 or worse at normal driving/ cruising, FKC of -1.4 in the middle of a WOT run that is consistent from run to run, and/or FKC or -2.8 or worse WOT when NOT mashing throttle.
- Knock Sums/ Counts- Honestly, don't bother using these and scaring yourself, the AP/ Computer will take almost any sound significant enough to seem like knock to be knock- this includes regular acceleration/ RPM noises and hitting potholes. These values are only relevant under specific conditions, and otherwise should be ignored. Just for kicks I have mine Knock Sum for Cyl 4 on the past few days, and I get about "120 knocks" every hour. My car does not have anything wrong with it.
DAM drops, while imposing, when no FBK is present to a serious degree or repeatable degree, it is likely the car having detected something it didn't like and being SUPER CAREFUL by pulling timing and then relearning the areas little by little which you will see as positive FKL values. DO NOT RESET YOUR CAR OR TUNE WHEN YOUR DAM DROPS. Your car is (more likely) experiencing a false-flag knock event it's being careful of, or you got something like bad gas. If you car feels normal and fine, it almost certainly is. Fill up with trusted 93 premium gas (my go to are official Mobile 1 stations, I've had bad luck with Shell) and drive normally.
Other useful resources include:
www.NASIOC.com (North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club, largest online forum for Impreza WRX/ STi)
NASIOC MASER FAQ and Guide
www.cars101.com (Outstanding resource for detailed technical information on most any modern Subaru (2012+)
Facebook also has a large number of WRX, STi, and related groups. These include groups for specific parts of the country/ world, specific years, specific models, and so forth.
thank you to users SwitchUps, ItselfSurprised02, Fiasko2, ExtraThigg, V1scera, SockeyeSTI, ebihn14, he8c6evd8, Sunburn79 and all other contributors great and small as this continues
submitted by dotMJEG to WRXSTi [link] [comments]
2021.09.21 16:15 prawnbiryani 💗☁🍦🌸🧁🤍🦩
2021.09.21 16:15 wbradleyjr1 Podcast—Ryan Hartwig—Facebook Whistleblower Shares Just How Deep The Censorship Rabbit Hole Goes
submitted by wbradleyjr1 to whatsreallygoinon [link] [comments]
2021.09.21 16:15 bubblyamyy just got rick rolled, how’s your day going?
2021.09.21 16:15 geeekstink hollowfiction - never in a million moons (Singapore indie/math rock) (2020)
submitted by geeekstink to shareyourmusic [link] [comments]
2021.09.21 16:15 Manada_2 Estou achando que se o Banco Central decidir aumentar a Selic em apenas 1%, não adiantará muita coisa. Dólar continuará pressionado com crise política e calote da Evergrande. Além disso, expectativa de inflação 2021 é de 8,35%, Bacen não atingiu a meta e continuamos com JURO REAL NEGATIVO
submitted by Manada_2 to ValueInvestingBrasil [link] [comments]
2021.09.21 16:15 TimLaBean [Meme] If Only (Regarding Saïx Data Fight)
2021.09.21 16:15 icelandicpotatosalad If a billionaire gave you a blank and you could cash out as much money as you wanted how much would you take ?
submitted by icelandicpotatosalad to AskReddit [link] [comments]
2021.09.21 16:15 shootingbot Powder Valley: IMR 4831
2021.09.21 16:15 js102984 My ava loves when I get new tires for my truck.
2021.09.21 16:15 Azkuzku Average redditor grasps at any possible straws to call people incels
2021.09.21 16:15 froz_troll Day 1 of posting Dagoth wave till yub plays Morrowind.
2021.09.21 16:15 Sabatar446 Is this the answer, the AMD chips have capacitors around the die when the Intel chips don't. So Asus put liquid metal on AMD chips which can't have an enclosure to protect the laptop from liquid metal?